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In O Scale: Building a sand house. A six part project. SEE BELOW.
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Most Scales: How to easily fashion pipe unions and elbows. See below.
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Helpful Hint #1, All Scales: To mix plaster for scenery get a small (6") rubber ball and cut it in half. Use each half as a mixing bowl. When dry, turn inside-out for a super easy clean up.
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I have been commissioned to build a sand house in O scale.
The tower tank and hardware is a limited set of Coronado castings no longer available, so we'll also see how to scratch-build that in addition to building the rest of the structure.
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Click on the Wide-Eyed Lionel to start this project. >>>>>
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Most Scales: How to easily fashion pipe unions and elbows.
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Tools and materials needed: brass or copper wire or rod for the pipe. Heat shrink tubing close to the diameter of the pipe. A new #11 X-Acto or razor blade. A heat source.
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Cut 1/2 inch length of shrink tubing. If close to diameter of pipe ,continue, if somewhat larger place on rod and shrink to fit, remove. Slice a bunch of little rings and a few longer segments. Three sizes are shown here.
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Elbow needs slight adjustment, four types of unions shown. After placement apply small drop of ACC to prevent slippage. Slowly and carefully build up space inside rings to represent the thicker union. The three in the middle do not require this.
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Paint and install. The bent pipe is for the sand house tank delivery pipe, the one at the bottom as an example, the unions will be removed and used elsewhere.
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Building a burned structure in Z scale or any scale.
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In 1968 I built a burned station in N scale, something that just wasn't done. A picture of it along with the first N scale bobber caboose, coaling station and steel reefer appeared in an issue of Model Railroader Magazine. Recently someone mentioned building a structure and then setting fire to it. THIS WILL NOT WORK gentle readers. 1- As a former firefighter, setting things on fire scares me unless it's done in a fireplace or outside on the barbecue. 2- Fire is scale 1 :1 and whatever scale your building is in, IT WON'T WORK, as everything (roof, walls, floor) will burn at the same rate (fast) and just ruin a good model. This will show you a much better way of doing it. This technique can be used in any scale.
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First, as in any scratch-building project, plan ahead. Where did the fire start? How much of the structure burned before it was brought under control? How long ago did this happen? In the example on the right it was obviously in the corner, quickly put out, and happened some time before; there is little water around and firefighters are still combing the site for evidence but a window and a door have already been boarded up.
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Studs and joists will take more time to burn through than walls and most furniture. Because heat rises, once breached, a roof will go quickly, leaving some burned rafters exposed. Normally the corrugated roof would have been less damaged but it was a hot fire (this is a factory after all) and the inside had to be easily seen. It's OK, let's call it artistic licence.
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Here the walls have been cut and assembled as well as the floors. This structure is more fragile than most because of the "missing mass". Note the tall timbers in the corners, this is to show the original roof line.
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Sorry about the picture quality, this shows added studs, rafters and joists. The burned areas have been painted midnight black. Note that the window and door openings on the back wall have not been cut out but painted black above where smoke would have stained the walls. On the right is the same area with inside details added including bits of wood painted black, scale coal and burnt machinery.
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Interior details
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This is a view from the other side. Details like the boarded openings and one of the three firefighters sifting through the rubble make the scene come alive. Add a fire engine to complete it. >>>>>>>>
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I hope this has been informative and has decided you to start on your own project, in any scale.
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