| An O Scale Sand House. A follow-along, step-by-step scratch building project Part Three. |
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| In this part we start building the house itself. You'll need a sheet of your favorite siding, more square wood stock and the usual SHARP blades. For glue I start with "Tacky Glue" followed by an application of ACC for added strength. |
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| I used two different sizes of sheath siding, one for the building and one for the roof. Back to that later. The sheet for the building is NOE 369, 3/16' siding which translate to boards 9 scale inches wide. You could use wider or narrower boards, board and batten, clapboard, whatever you like, or whatever you have the most of, or mix them as I did in LOU's canoes. See picture 1. |
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| It turns out the width of the board is 3 1/2 inches (scale 14 feet), so guess how wide I made the side walls? Right, 3 1/2 inches. See how easy I am? We'll butt the end walls to those to add a little bit more length. Cut two sections 2 inches tall (8 scale feet), one has a cut out for a Grandt Line 5-panel door #3607, the other for an attic window #3722. Use whatever you like/have on hand. The two ends are 2 1/2 inches wide, 2 inches tall and 3 1/8 inches at the apex, this should give you a 90 degree pitch roof. One end has another Grandt Line attic window, the other on the bunker side is an opening that is a scale 2 x 4 feet and 2 feet from the bottom. Now lets distress that wood using a different method than for the bunker. |
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| If we were to use the saw method, all the boards would look alike, not what I wanted. Draw the tip of a dull #11 blade along the wood, varying the grain as to closeness, direction and depth. Note that boards above window openings don't have the same grain as those below. |
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| Note too the short boards and the nail holes. In the left hand picture I noticed as I looked at it that I needed to do a little bit more de-fuzzing and that the thickness of the broken boards was too thick. These don't really show all that much but you will note that there are others on the sides that will, so I shaved off some material. Figs. 1, 3. |
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| The sides and ends have been braced with the same 6 x 6 boards I used on the bunker. Note the side walls fit INSIDE the end walls. Bracing adds strength and will minimize any chance of warping when we paint. The roof is made of two pieces of NOE 356, 1/8 inch scribed siding -6 scale inch boards. They are 2 x 4 1/4 inches. Note: the roof will be attached to the building with the scribed side down. The boards have been distressed using the saw method. |
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| The roof is in pretty good shape but I wanted some signs of wear. First, each board has been cut in for 1/4 inch or so to make it look like they are individual boards and not part of a sheet, then in two of the lower corners I have bent a couple of boards so it will look like they droop down. In picture 4 you will see that I pictured one piece of the roof with the scribing down, just as it would be when installed on the building, but I cut out a rectangle and glued it back in reverse. This will show through a torn part of tar roofing. |
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| Glue the four walls together using your favorite method to insure everything is square. I am a firm believer in dry-fitting and measuring twice before cutting. Note the corner brace also. Continue with the other two sides and then glue both assemblies together. The two pictures below show you what it looks like so far, not glued together yet. |
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| Back to Part One./ Back to part deux./ Part Four./ Part Five./ |
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| HOME >>>>> |
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